Peru travel blog by Mark Berman -
August 2011
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Ayacucho is definitely the most underrated and undervisited city by tourists and backpackers in Peru. I had come to Ayacucho on an 8hr bus from Huancayo through some
amazing terrains and landscapes. Bus Huancayo to Ayacucho
40 minutes out of Huancayo the distance to Ayacucho is 223kms, Huancavelica 111kms and Izcuchaca 33kms, during this
time we passed through Huancan with its pretty plaza and church and 2 other small churches in the countryside. We soon came to a place called Nahuinpuquio
where you can hike to the lagoon and see some archeological ruins, there is a huge market 10mins along the road. The next part of the journey was nice
as we headed along a road on a ridge around the hills to Casma where there are some hotsprings known as Aguas Calientes. Down in the valley with the
river on my right, arriving a few minutes later in the little town of Izcuchaca, a very picturesque scene indeed, an arched stone bridge across the river
to a lovely bunch of houses and a big rocky and green mountain behind. We continued along beside the river. Half an hour later we came to a small town
and a railway station, a small blue church sits on the hill. 40mins later on the right side is a river dam and the Quichuas army base and town with its
pink church. A while earlier the road had turned to gravel and continued this way as we followed the river on a ledge 30-40m above. By the middle of the
day we were in Esmeralda, a very small town with a soccer pitch beside a huge hill. The valley was becoming quite tropical and green, many palms and other
trees, the waters of the river were a rich turquoise color as we ascended back into the red rocky mountains. There are some great photo opportunities
out to the right looking down at this scene once at the top. Half an hour or so later we passed a series of Stonehenge-like rock formations in the next
valley. We crossed the river and drove by a papaya plantation. A while on we arrived in Huanta, a small town with a pastel colored church, we made a
stop for ice-creams.
Arrived In Ayacucho
Within an hour we arrived in Ayacucho, a welcoming sign above the road said "Ayacucho es Magico" - Ayacucho is Magic. I would
understand why in the morning. Ayacucho is known as the city of churches, there are over 30 churches scattered around the city. I got the feeling I was
in
Quito - Ecuador (a city with many churches).
Taxi Tour of Churches and the City
I didn't have a lot of time. I wanted to see as much as possible before moving on, the next day. At 5am
in the morning I arose and got organised. At 6am I hired a taxi to give me a 90min tour around the city, taking me to as many churches and other places
as possible. We agreed on a price of 30 Soles ($10USD). Like all good city tours we started at the Plaza de Armas and stone Cathedral. We visited next
Church San Francisco de Paula (1713) - a yellow / white color, quite impressive. Next, the grey-stone church Santa Clara (1568) constructed from stone
extracted from the mines. We passed a big orangey pink archway on our way to the next church San Francisco de Asis (1552), then onto see church Santa
Teresa built in 1703. We travelled up the hill to see some views of the city from the mirador. The hills glistened in the golden morning sun, there
are several monuments and things up here like a big white cross, archways, Jesus statue and eagle monument. Back down to the center and past the markets
to see fresh fish on ice being sold in the street. The next church I was taken to was church Santa Ana founded in 1569, we then wizzed by a park and
Mercado Santa Clara before arriving at Templo El Calvario, a simple white church. We visited now church Santo Domingo contructed in 1548, it looks a bit
like a fortress and then church Santa Maria Magdalena (1588). A plaza and monument to
Andres Avelino Caceres (1836-1923), a national hero and 3 times
President of Peru was the next sight. It was time to thank the taxi driver for a great tour and continue on foot. I visited Plaza Maria Parado de Bellido
(1761-1822), a heroin of Peru's independence. Standing is a monument to her and a small white church called Arco. I loved what I saw in Ayacucho and will
return again in the future, there is much more to see.
Bus to Andahuaylas
I spent the rest of the day, 8hrs 30mins on a bus to visit the famous Sunday markets in
Andahuaylas.
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Woolen jersey with animals for children, nice clothing at the crafts center in Ayacucho.
Woman with potatoes, the men play music, ceramic figures of Ayacucho.
Tower of San Francisco de Paula church, made in white stone in Ayacucho.
Gardens, lawns and plaza across the road from Santo Domingo Temple in Ayacucho.
