Peru Experiences, Stories & Photos from a Backpacker

Experiences & Stories:

Anything is possible in Peru, from jungle adventures in the Amazon to sandboarding down some of the biggest sand dunes in the world at Ica. Ancient cultures can be seen and experienced including the Nazca Lines and the city of Cusco (The City of the Inca). Great surfing can be done in the northern coast areas where many beaches including Mancora are located!

I have spent a reasonable time in Peru, I had over 2 weeks in Cusco on 2 occasions in 2008 and have travelled up and down the coast from north to south and back in 2009 for over 2 weeks. There is more I want to see in Peru in the future. Here are my experiences and story.

Cusco: Cusco is a great town for nightlife, clubs, bars, restaurants and of course, the place to book your Machu Picchu tour! Cusco is not the be all and end all of Peru, but being in the highlands it is a more beautiful place than perhaps the coastal cities are. More

Machu Picchu: I went on a day trip to Machu Picchu on the train, it took about 4hrs each way from Cusco and cost $105USD for everything included except the entrance ticket to the ruins, there was a group of us with a guide to talk about and explain things. When we arrived, from the train station we got on a bus that drove us up to the top of the mountain which took about 20 minutes. More

San Pedro Journeys: I and a small group of 4 others went up into the mountains overlooking Cusco to a special place to drink San Pedro, the day cost $70USD, we had an amazing experience which lasted about 10-12 hours. I can't really explain it, but it was very surreal. I saw a rainbow around the sun in an exact circle, not a halucination, I got a photo to prove it. More

Arriving in Lima: I have had a few experiences in Lima, arriving/leaving by bus, arriving/leaving by plane and with the taxis. A friend from Peru told me "Lima is a dangerous place", another friend from Lima who lives in Cusco told me "Lima is a horrible place, full of horrible people". More

Pisco, The Islas Ballestas and Paracas Nacional Parque: My travel buddy and I arrived in Pisco at about 5am from Lima which was a 3hr journey south. From the bus we were hussled by mototaxis for a ride into the center of Pisco. The buses drop passengers on the Pan-American highway because the road into Pisco is currently (2009) inaccessible to buses because of the earthquake in 2007. More

Ica / Huacachina: We travelled from Pisco to Ica by bus and took a short taxi ride to Huacachina the next morning to stay by the oasis and go sandboarding on the huge sand dunes. We found a great hostel with a pool and bar and outside area with a bunch of macaw as pets that sat and flew around the garden. More

Nazca: Heading to Nazca by bus from Ica we passed some vineyards, crops in fields, churches and some statues and came into an extended area of mountains with amazing shapes and colors, passed through green valleys with settlements and small roadside villages. More

Arequipa: One of the highlights in the city of Arequipa is the beautiful Plaza de Armas, a big wide open space of white buildings, cathedrals, trees and grass areas, archways, fountain, chairs, pigeons and people enjoying the sun, the setting is wonderful with the snow-capped mountains in the distance. More

Juliaca / Puno: We arrived in Juliaca at about 8pm one night and found a budget hotel, we went out for some horrible fried chicken meal. The bed was so horrible we left the hotel at 4am and found a collective taxi-van on the street leaving to Puno by 4:30am. Juliaca didn't look like an attractive town to me. More

Puno to Bolivian Border: From Puno we wanted to go to Copacabana on the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca. I have spent a few days at Copacabana on 2 occasions. On my first trip I went there from La Paz in the south and on my third trip from Puno in the north. By mistake from Puno we got on the wrong bus which was going to Desaguadero on the other side of the lake from Copacabana instead of a bus to Yunguyo. More

Chile Border to Tacna: From the bus and taxi terminal in Arica in northern Chile I got a collective taxi across the border to Tacna in southern Peru. It was the end of the day and the Peruvian people who come over the border each day to sell their products in Chile were packing up at the terminal and getting buses back into Peru. More

Tacna: I arrived in Tacna in the evening from Chile with the intention of staying 1 night and continuing north to Camana the next day after having a look around Tacna which is precisely what I did. After 2 bowls of chicken soup from across the road and a good nights sleep, in the morning I wandered around the city and headed for the main plaza to take a few photos. More

Camana: I was glad to arrive in Camana after a not so pleasant bus ride from Tacna, it took about 9hrs and I was in desperate need of some soup, I asked a few restaurants if they served soup and they all kept telling me the same name of a place where I could get some, I found it by the plaza and indulged. More

Huanchaco / Trujillo: Although I was not in Huanchaco in peak season I enjoyed the laid back and relaxed atmosphere here for a couple of nights while spending a day visiting some of the archaeological sights in Trujillo and nearby Chan Chan. I was also interested to see the famous banana boats that the locals use for fishing, the beach and some surfing. More

Trujillo to Piura to Mancora: Heading north from Trujillo via Chiclayo took 3-4hrs and north again up to Piura took about another 3 hours or so. The scenery on this first leg up to Chiclayo is nothing spectacular, grey mountain ranges, dusty little towns and lots of rubbish on the side of the road. More

Mancora: I arrived in Mancora at 11pm from Trujillo, stepped out of the taxi-van and was immediately hounded by 4 mototaxi drivers asking if I need accommodation and that they knew of a good place. All talking at the same time, I asked 3 to move away and took a short ride to a cheap crash pad by the beach which cost only 15 soles ($5USD) per night, it was a basic room with my own bathroom and bed with mosquito net. More

Mancora to Tumbes to Ecuadorian Border: I caught a co-op taxi-van north from Mancora to Tumbes to cross the border into Ecuador, the journey took about an hour and a quarter and cost me 15 soles, I would say it's possible to get that ride for about 10 soles. The coast is really nice as you travel north to Tumbes, beautiful bays, fishing villages, a statue, hills at the back, I saw accommodation at various points along the way. More

Ecuadorian Border to Sullana to Piura: Exiting Macara in Ecuador for Peru is straight forward, you can get your exit stamp at the border, walk across the bridge and get your entry stamp for Peru on the other side. Once this is done, there are co-op taxis waiting there to take you to Sullana which is about 130kms away, there is also hot food (chicken and rice etc) available while you wait for the taxi to fill up. More

Chimbote: I stopped in Chimbote for a few hours to have lunch with a friend who lives there and then we travelled 6hrs by bus to Lima. The prices of the buses varied a lot, we got a ticket for 20 soles in first class which is a good deal. Chimbote is a place that makes fish oil, the whole city smells like fish, quite strongly, so unless you love the smell of fish, I wouldn't bother staying here. More

Photos:

All Peru Photos




Entertainment in Cusco street. The lobster monument on the thoroughfare in Camana. Very detailed designs of the Moche, snakes, flowers, birds. It is not only the buildings that make Arequipa 'The White City', but also the snow-capped mountains. Adobe brick engraved into diamonds on a wall at Chan Chan.
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Recommended Things To Do:

Go sandboarding at Huacachina oasis, 4-5 hours south of Lima.

Visit Paracas National Park and the Islas Ballestas in Pisco.

See the ancient designs made from rocks known of as the Nazca Lines and other archeology.

Visit the city of Arequipa known of as the white city because of its many white buildings and peaks.

Mancora on the very northern coast is the place to be for sun, sand and surf.

The city of Cusco is the city of the Inca, a great place to spend a week! Enjoy the nightlife, wander the narrow streets and see the cathedral in the plaza. If you get water thrown on you from above and people rush to assist you, you must not let them, they are trying to take your camera or wallet!

Trek for a few days or take a day trip on the train from Cusco to Machu Picchu and see Peru's biggest tourist attraction for yourself!

The floating reed islands in Puno which has people living on them, you may visit or stay a night.

Iquitos, the jungle city in the north east and only reachable by riverboat or plane.

Chan Chan and Huacas del Sol y La Luna (Temples of Sun & Moon) in Trujillo.

Visa Requirements:

Links:
Peru - Wikipedia
Peru Contact
Lonely Planet
Weather for Peruvian Cities
Art Prints and Posters
Machu Picchu - Art Prints and Posters
Infoplease
Travel Blogs
An American In Lima Blog
En Peru Blog
Newspapers
Backpacking South America
Blog: Inside South America

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Videos:

Dune Buggy and Sandboarding at Huacachina

The Aqueducts of Nazca

The Corridors and Open Spaces of Chan Chan

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My Hostel & Hotel Reviews:

Casa de la Gringa, Cusco, Peru (Oct 2008 - 5 nights) - A very chilled out place to relax in Cusco, a quiet atmosphere, comfortable lounge area, kitchen and nice location close to some lovely restaurants! Its up the hill through some steep cobblestone streets a little bit. It is owned by Wendy who organises San Pedro Journeys. booking

Loki Backpacker Hostel, Cusco, Peru (Sep 2008 - 3 nights) - A great party place for young people, up the hill a bit from the Plaza de Armas. There are nice outside courtyards to hang out in and a brand new bar. booking

The Point Cusco, Cusco, Peru (Apr 2008 - 4 nights) - A great bunch of people and an awesome outside grassy area for bbq's, beautifully cooked meals served buffet style at night, pool table, bar, relaxed atmosphere, tours to Machu Picchu can be booked from the foyer and it's close to the Plaza de Armas. booking

Hostal El Cesar, Pisco, Peru (Apr 2009 - 2 nights) - A comfortable room with a bathroom at a good price, not far from the plaza. A cheaper option than some of the other hostels in the area that charge around 45 Soles per night. photo

Hostal Rocha, Huacachina, Peru (Apr 2009 - 2 nights) - Nice rooms with views, great garden area with swimming pool, bar and food to order. There are hammocks under trees to lay in and friendly big parrot birds live in the garden area, it's easy to organise a sandboarding excursion from here. photo

Hostal Guillens, Nazca, Peru (Apr 2009 - 1 night) - Not bad, has hammocks outside the rooms and a computer in the reception for the guests. It's close to the center of town, don't make an instant decision about tours in the foyer when they ask though. photo

Casona Blanca Hostal, Arequipa, Peru (Apr 2009 - 2 nights) - Nice room and bathroom, pleasant outside area where you can sit in the sun to have your complimentary breakfast in the morning. Within walking distance to the beautiful central plaza area, lots of shops are in the area. photo

Hotel Santa Maria, Juliaca, Peru (Apr 2009 - 1 night) - They said they had hot water but didn't, the bed was so bad we left at 4am in the morning and got a ride by co-op taxi-van to Puno by 4:30am.

Hotel Royal Inn, Tacna, Peru (May 2009 - 2 nights) - Big spacious room with bathroom and tv, well priced, good staff and in the center of town. The biggest room I have had in South America! photo

Hostal Plaza, Camana, Peru (May 2009 - 2 nights) - Right on the plaza, not too expensive, room was ok and had a bathroom, a nice chinese style restaurant is nextdoor, it was a good base for me to wander around Camana from, it's in the nicer end of town. photo

Hostal Tambo Colorado, Pisco, Peru (May 2009 - 1 night) - I had a great room, it's close to the plaza, has a computer and nice staff, mid-priced. It cost 45 soles for my room but there are cheaper options very nearby for around 30 soles. photo

Plazza's Hotel, Huanchaco, Peru (Jun 2009 - 2 nights) - A great room at a great price, 25 soles, has 3 computers for free use, you can rent surfboards downstairs and it's close to the beach. photo

Hospedaje Angeles Del Mar, Mancora, Peru (Jun 2009 - 2 nights) - 15 soles per night for an extremely basic concrete floor room with dingy bathroom and average bed with mosquito net. It's right beside the beach and suits young surfer people or people who like to rough it sometimes like me. The mosquitos are the most vicious I ever met, the net around the bed was under full attack! photo

Chan Chan Inn, Trujillo, Peru (Jun 2009 - 1 night) - Basic and not very nice room, the bed was thin and uncomfortable and I was covered in bug bites in the morning, not recommended.

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Festivals and Holidays in Peru during September:

Month	Date	When	Festival / Holiday	Where / Location
September	1 - 12		El Festival de la Virgen de Guadalupe	Nazca
September	24		La Virgen de la Merced	Puno

Yearlong Festivals and Holidays of Peru