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Bolivia Experiences, Stories & Photos from a Backpacker

Rock, rock, rock... in Tupiza. A small group busking in the street, in La Paz. Laguna Celeste with flamingos in the Salar de Uyuni. Coca Museum entrance in La Paz with leaf press at the back.

Experiences & Stories:
Bolivia is a country of amazing contrasts! From the rugged, rocky and cactus filled terrain of Tupiza where Butch Cassidy & the Sundance Kid once roamed to Uyuni where you will find the worlds largest salt flats to the jungle areas of Rurrenabaque, Bolivia has it all. Bolivia is not only one of the most authentic of South American countries, it is also the cheapest!

I have been to Bolivia 3 times during 2008 and 2009, each time entering and exiting at a different place. I have spent about 5-6 weeks here. Here are my experiences and story.

Argentinian Border, Villazon to Tupiza:
The first time for me in Bolivia, I had spent roughly 7hrs on a bus from Salta in Argentina up to the border town of La Quiaca and crossed onto the Bolivian side and stepped into their border town of Villazon. The bus had left Salta at 10pm and it was now around 5am, it was freezing! "Bienvenidos A La Republica De Bolivia - Villazon - Altitude 3497 (meters above sea level)", the sign said. More

Tupiza:
Tupiza will remind you of the scenery you have seen in the wild west movies, it is surrounded by the Cordillera de Chichas, a rugged, rocky, mountainous area of jagged edged hills and dusty canyons of cactus. Things to do here include horse riding, biking and hiking, there a few tour operators with guides around town. More

Tupiza via Atocha to Uyuni:
The following morning, I made an early start towards the bus terminal in Tupiza just a few minutes walk away. I intended on getting a bus but it was full up, so the other and better option was to go by jeep, there was enough people who couldn't fit in the bus to fill the 10 spaces available in the jeep pretty quickly. More

Uyuni and the Salar de Uyuni (Salt Flats):
I arrived in Uyuni in the early evening from Tupiza, found a room for myself in a hostel for about 40 bolivianos which was $5USD in early 2008. It was quite cold, Uyuni is at an altitude of 3675 meters. I went out to a restaurant and hung out with a whole bunch of people, some that were in the jeep from Tupiza that day and had a great meal. More

La Paz:
La Paz, what an amazing place it is! I have been in and out of La Paz about 4 times in 2008/2009 entering and exiting from and to different places, and have spent about 3 weeks here all together. In my mind I call La Paz the mad house, it is like sensory overload on steroids. More

La Paz to Copacabana:
I have travelled this leg in both directions, it is a nice bus journey that includes crossing Lake Titicaca briefly, it takes up to 3hrs. The bus doesn't leave from the main terminal, it leaves from up the hill quite a bit, take a taxi there. The bus climbs out of La Paz, the view of the city is awesome, stopping a couple of times at the top of the rim to pick up more people, the main road out of the La Paz area is busy, dirty and polluted with vehicle fumes. More

Copacabana:
Copacabana is a little paradise on the shores of Lake Titicaca, just 2 and a half hours north of La Paz. The contrast between Copacabana and La Paz couldn't be greater. I have stayed in Copacabana on 2 occasions in 2008 and 2009 for 3 nights in total, backpackers pass through here for a break from city hopping, it is a great place to relax on a journey, say from La Paz to Cusco. More

Rurrenabaque:
Going to Rurrenabaque and going on the pampas or jungle tour sounded like an awesome experience from what I had heard and read about it. A friend and I decided we would go on the pampas tour of the wetlands. We booked the tour in the foyer of Loki Hostel at Kanoo Tours in La Paz, it cost 1200 bolivianos and was for 3 days and 2 nights. More

Cochabamba:
I spent 3 nights in Cochabamba, I didn't do a lot here apart from wander around the markets, eat too much fried chicken and see a lot of dead chickens in the meat markets. But I did visit the worlds tallest Jesus statue that towers over the city called Cristo De La Concordia (Statue Height - 34.2 metres, Pedestal Height - 6.24 meters). More

Santa Cruz:
The first time I came to Santa Cruz was on a long 18hr bus haul from Salta in Argentina, I knew it was known as the 'city of rings' and that it would be quite warm, but that's about all. I also didn't realise that it was the weekend of the Bolivian vote of confidence referendum, 2008, for the president Evo Morales and that all shops, bars and clubs would be closed. More

Santa Cruz to Quijarro on the Death Train:
The Death Train (Ferroviaria Oriental) was due to leave Santa Cruz mid-afternoon and would take about 15hrs through the night and arrive at the border in Quijarro first thing in the morning, it cost between $15-20USD. The journey was quite comfortable and fun, the seats were not bad and there was food onsale on the train, some nice little chicken and rice meals for about 20 bolivianos, but better still was the food that the local children brought onboard to sell to the passengers when the train stopped at various places along the way. More

Argentinian Border, Yacuiba to Santa Cruz:
When I crossed the border from Salvador Mazza in Argentina to Yacuiba in Bolivia, it happened to be Bolivia's National Independence Day. The streets were jammed with parades, a stage, marching bands, onlookers, stray dogs and chaos. The bus stood still for 4hrs before we were allowed to pass through the town, but we did get off the bus and walk around to watch the celebrations. More


Photos:   All Bolivia Photos
Snow-capped mountains of the Salar de Uyuni. Mate Windsor coca tea packet. Frontera Bolivia - Brazil, the border crossing. Cactus Mountain in the Salar de Uyuni, picture 3.
Walking down is easier than walking up in La Paz. Sharp pointy rocks in Tupiza. A black Heron in the pampas, Amazon Basin. A dolphin plays with a plastic bottle in the Pampas.
View from the top of Cerro Calvario in Copacabana. A lodge on the river of the Rurrenabaque pampas. Woman selling donuts in La Paz. Llama fetuses at the witches market.
An amazing rock doorway in Tupiza.
Icon of the Salar de Uyuni.
The train cemetery at the edge of the Salar de Uyuni, picture 3.
A parade in Yacuiba on National Independance Day 2008.
Chocolate and sweets stall, La Paz.
View more photos from Bolivia


Recommended Things To Do:
  • Ride horses in Tupiza where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid roamed and died in the early 1900's.
  • Take a 3-4 day tour of the Salar de Uyuni, the worlds biggest salt flats, it is fantastic! See the train cemetery before you go.
  • Visit the tropical jungles of Rurrenabaque to see amazing wildlife and plant species.
  • The city of La Paz built inside a chasm at 3600 metres above sea level is an amazing place to spend a week!
  • Santa Cruz is known of as the city of rings because the roads form rings around the central plaza. Also known as a city of beautiful woman.
  • Eat fresh fish from Lago Titicaca, the beautiful town of Copacabana is a lovely quiet place to spend a night or two, explore the inca ruins, take a boat out to the 'Isla del Sol' (Island of the Sun), climb a small mountain before sunset and see this amazing lake from above!
  • The city of Cochabamba has the worlds tallest Jesus statue, it's taller than the one in Rio. You can climb up inside and out into his arms and look out over the city.
  • Head east from Santa Cruz on the 'Death Train' for Corumba Brazil to see the Pantanal.
  • Bike on Death Road with Gravity Bolivia.
  • See the silver mines of Potosi.


  • Videos:
    A Parade of Children in Uyuni Video
    A Parade of Children in Uyuni
    A Quartet of Buskers Play in La Paz Video
    A Quartet of Buskers Play in La Paz
    Kids Swarm the Death Train Selling Food Video
    Kids Swarm the Death Train Selling Food

    See more videos from Bolivia & South America

    My Hostel & Hotel Reviews:
    Hotel Fuentes, La Paz, Bolivia (photo and review) (Oct 2008 - 1 night) booking
    BH & H Hostel Concordia, Cochabamba, Bolivia (Aug 2008 - 3 nights) - It would have been good if they had known I was arriving. It would have been good if the price I payed per night was the price it said when I booked. It would have been good if the front desk remembered the amount I had payed them the previous night and not said that I had payed less than what I did the next morning. It would have been good if they had a computer there to record the details of their guests & not the book that they write things down in.
    Jodanga Backpackers Hostel, Santa Cruz, Bolivia (Aug 2008 - 7 nights) - Probably the most well managed hostel I have been to! Its got many facilities and its very clean and the staff are very helpful and friendly. Not much of a party atmosphere but I guess it depends on the people who are staying. It would be nice if the music played over the speakers was different each day and also a bit more recent. booking
    Loki Backpackers La Paz, La Paz, Bolivia (photo and review) (Apr 2008 - 7 nights, Aug 2008 - 5 nights, Apr 2009 - 2 nights) booking
    Hostelling International Salar de Uyuni, Uyuni, Bolivia (Apr 2008 - 1 night) - This was a nice place to stay in the center of Uyuni for 1 night before the Salar de Uyuni tour the next day. It's fairly basic, but right in the middle of all the tour agents, restaurants and shops. booking
    Hotel Mitru Anexo, Tupiza, Bolivia (Apr 2008 - 2 nights) - I had a simple and quiet room. The hotel was in a good location near the train station, restaurants, internet cafe and tour operators. I believe it's sister hotel up the road has a pool that can be used. booking
    Brisas del Titicaca, Copacabana, Bolivia (photo and review) (Apr 2009 - 1 night) booking
    Hostal Maya Inn, La Paz, Bolivia (photo and review) (May 2009 - 3 nights) booking
    El Curichal Hostal, Rurrenabaque, Bolivia (photo and review) (May 2009 - 1 night)
    Indigena Ecolodge, Rurrenabaque, Bolivia (photo and review) (May 2009 - 2 nights)

    Festivals and Holidays in Bolivia during February:
    Month Date When Festival / Holiday Where / Location
    FebruaryRuns in parallel with the Rio CarnivalLa Diablada CarnivalOruro
    February2Fiesta de la Virgen de la CandelariaCopacabana
    February14CarnavalesOruro

    Yearlong Festivals and Holidays of Bolivia

    Visa Requirements:
    Links:
    Bolivia - Wikipedia
    Bolivia Contact
    Lonely Planet
    Weather for Bolivian Cities
    Art Prints and Posters
    Infoplease
    Travel Blogs
    Sharing Bolivia
    Biking Death Road
    Newspapers
    Backpacking South America
    Blog: Inside South America
    Find Accommodation:


    Political Map of Bolivia
    Political Map of Bolivia
    Bolivia Flag

    Maps:
    Satellite View

    View Larger Map
    Standard View
    Bolivia Map

    Recommended Reading:

    Weather:
    Weather Stations: La Paz  Cochabamba  Sucre  Rurrenabaque  Santa Cruz  Riberalta  Trinidad 
    Current conditions in Sucre
    Click for Potosi, Bolivia Forecast

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